Exterior
Exterior work includes the roof and gutters, chimney, siding, windows, exterior doors, decks and porches, fences, flatwork and driveways, landscaping, as well as garages and outbuildings.
Quick tip: Keep in mind that most exterior systems require a positive slope away from the house. This applies to window sills, door sills and thresholds, decks, patios and flatwork, and even the surrounding earth. Flat or negative slopes toward the house will cause problems over time, even if they are not immediately visible. I constantly uncover these issues in older homes. A slope of 1 to 2 percent is generally recommended for most systems.
The Roof
The big bad roof, arguably the most important component of the house. Without the roof, you are simply outside. About 80 percent of residential roofs in the U.S. are asphalt shingle, so this section focuses specifically on that type of roof covering. There are two ways to replace an asphalt shingle roof: a complete tear off or a shingle overlay. A shingle overlay installs new shingles directly over the existing ones, saving money by avoiding a tear off, often preventing the replacement of damaged decking, underlayment, and flashing. Some areas still allow one additional layer of roofing, but you should check your local building codes to see what is permitted. Consult your contractor to determine what’s appropriate for your roof. If the flashing is in poor condition or the decking needs repairs, a full tear off and replacement is the responsible repair.
Appraisers look at a roof the same way buyers do, if it’s in normal shape for the age of the house, it doesn’t add value, it just avoids problems. Wear, curling shingles, or anything that signals end of life gets treated as deferred maintenance and pushes value down because buyers may mentally price in the replacement. Active leaks or structural issues can trigger lender required repairs, which hit value even harder.
Inspecting the roof: The best way to tell if a roof has failed is to look for leaks in the attic. After a rain, you can use a moisture meter to check the roof decking. If you see staining on the decking or framing, don’t assume the roof has failed; the staining may be old. Check around chimneys and valleys, this is where flashing is more likely to fail.
Things to inspect from on top of the roof:
- Curled shingles: On shallow pitched roofs this can inhibit the roofs ability to shed water and cause water to back up and leak through the shingles.
- Shingles with cracking, excessive granule loss and blistering: These indicate shingles that are near the end of their life. Shingles become brittle as the asphalt breaks down.
- Uniform appearance: Older shingles dull and wear unevenly across the roof, the less uniform the appearance, the older the roof. As the shingles age they tend to dull from granule loss and surface wear due weather and UV damage.
- Uneven decking: Unevenness in the roof plane can be a sign of damaged or sagging roof decking. It can also be a sign of a shingle over. Either of these can result in a costlier reroof.
- Rusted or damaged flashing: If flashing is heavily rusted then a leak is imminent. It may also be a sign that the last roof was a shingle over, and the flashing wasn’t replaced, which is problematic. Look for holes and separation. You may find rust staining on the shingles nearby.
You can also check the number of layers on the roof at bottom edge, at the eave. Don’t confuse the starter strip for a separate layer. The starter strip will have no tabs, but will appear as a second layer of shingle under the starter course.
It is also important to understand the requirements for low slope roofs. Roofs with a slope between 2:12 and 4:12 require additional waterproofing measures because water sheds slower than on steeper roofs. If the slope is below 2:12, modified bitumen should be used. On low slope roofs, aged or worn shingles that curl back can direct water beneath the overlaps, leading to significant and widespread leaks.
When to replace the roof: After inspecting the roof from both above and below, you should have a good sense of its overall condition. Use this to guide your decision on whether it needs to be replaced and to what extent. I recommend hiring a professional crew to replace the roof because they can complete the job in one day, thus protecting the interior of the house. Consult with roofing contractors, they’re an invaluable source of wisdom. Ideally, rely on their advice and guidance as you gather estimates, which will give you a baseline for the responsible repair standard. It’s important to do this during the estimates phase, as contractors are more likely to offer competitive solutions to win your business. You may still encounter salesmen trying to oversell and retire on your job, which is why collecting multiple estimates is essential. Don’t delay any roof repairs, you cannot install finishes in a leaky house.
It’s time to replace a roof only when it has failed or is in such poor condition that failure is imminent. Replacing a roof that still has years of life left won’t maximize your return. To make an accurate assessment, inspect the roof both from above and from inside the attic. You don’t want to ignore the roof and hope everything is fine. If there’s a problem, you want to be the one who finds it, and you want to find it early in the project.
Quick tip: Another option to save money and achieve a similar difference in value is to replace only one side of the roof. This makes sense if only one side of the roof is damaged, and the other side is relatively new and in good condition.
Gutters
The gutters are a key functional part of the exterior. Their importance varies by region and annual rainfall, but in northeast Ohio they are essential. Major structural damage is often traced back to missing, clogged, or improperly pitched gutters. When water is discharged directly at the foundation, you increase the risk of basement or crawlspace moisture and add stress to the foundation as the surrounding soil expands. More on that in later sections. Here is a real example of a catastrophic failure caused in part by dysfunctional gutters:
I once bought a small house at auction, sight unseen, which, in itself, was a mistake. After taking possession and entering the property, I found the floors caved in through the main living area. From the outside the house looked perfectly average, but demolition revealed a chain of defects that explained the collapse. The gutter had separated from the downspout, dumping all roof water directly against the foundation. The concrete driveway trapped that water and forced it underneath the house, where it flooded the crawlspace. The constant moisture saturated the framing, which was too close to the ground, a common problem in older crawlspaces. The floor joists eventually rotted, and the water washed out the soil beneath the cinder block laying on bare earth supporting the midspan. The structure failed as a result. I ultimately sold the property and accepted a substantial loss. It was a lesson I will never forget.
Inspecting the gutters: It is best to inspect the gutters while it is raining. Make sure the gutters and downspouts are not clogged, and check that they are not pitched backward.
When to replace the gutters: Gutters often sag when their anchors loosen or when the board they are fastened to has begun to rot. If this causes significant overflow, that section should be replaced. If the gutters are heavily rusted or the seams have separated, that usually justifies a full replacement.
The Chimney
The chimney is important because it safely vents combustion gases from the house’s heating systems. Repairs can be expensive, so it is essential to assess its condition and requirements. Modern building codes require chimneys serving fuel burning appliances such as furnaces, water heaters, and fireplaces to have a liner. The chimney must be in good condition to ensure these appliances operate safely and effectively. In terms of value, appraisers view chimneys mainly as potential liabilities rather than features that add anything. A chimney in typical, stable condition is treated as normal and doesn’t move the number. Any signs of leaning, cracked brick, missing mortar, or water intrusion get flagged as deferred maintenance and push value down because buyers see risk and lenders may require repairs. A failing or unsafe chimney can trigger mandatory fixes, which has an even bigger impact on value, while a decorative or unused chimney offers no premium. It just needs to be intact and safe.
Inspecting the chimney
- The chimney liner: You will see it protruding out of the top of the chimney
- The chimney crown: This is a mortar or concrete wash applied over the chimney to shed water. Be sure the crown is in good condition and all cracks are sealed.
- The chimney cap: Be sure there is a cap installed over the liner, it protects the flue from weather and keeps critters out. They can also prevent sparks from landing on the roof or ground.
- The brick: Be sure there are no loose bricks or unsealed mortar joints.
When to repair the chimney: You can handle simple chimney repairs yourself. Chimney caps are inexpensive and easy to install, and small cracks around the crown can be sealed with flexible sealants. Installing a liner will depend on your experience level, but extensive damage and skilled masonry work are usually best left to a specialist. Large projects can be costly, but inspectors are trained to look closely at chimneys, so ignoring issues is not an option. It is best to address any problems early and take control of the process.
If the chimney needs an extensive rebuild, consider whether it might be more practical to abandon it. If you have, or plan to install, a high efficiency furnace, an electric water heater, and no usable fireplace, you may not need to repair the chimney at all. Just make sure it is watertight. In some cases, this can be the most cost effective solution.
The Siding
In terms of value, appraisers treat siding as part of the home’s overall condition, not a feature that adds money on its own. Siding that’s intact and appropriate for the home’s age is considered normal and doesn’t change the value. Value is only affected by rot, warping, peeling paint, or moisture damage. Full replacement needs can trigger larger downward adjustments or required repairs, while premium siding mainly improves marketability rather than adding a direct value premium.
There are several types of siding, and the type you have will largely determine your approach. In this section, we will focus on the most common siding types: vinyl, wood, fiber cement, aluminum, and brick. Vinyl is the most common choice when re-siding a house and can often be installed directly over existing siding. Other types of siding can often be repaired and painted to restore them to an acceptable condition. It is important to note that if you plan to paint siding, the surface must be properly prepared and the correct type of paint used.
Another point to consider is that older houses often have multiple layers of siding. The base layer is usually solid wood, while mid century homes may have masonite panels as sheathing. I’ve worked on century homes with up to four layers of siding. This matters because older homes are less likely to suffer catastrophic damage from a failure in a single layer. A house sheathed in OSB will deteriorate quickly if moisture penetrates, whereas older homes can typically withstand the same conditions much longer. If siding leaks and the secondary layer is also siding, damage is rarely directly aligned with the layer underneath (unless there is a flashing failure), making repairs more manageable and less extensive.
Residing the entire house is expensive and should only be done when it is absolutely required. Repairing should always be the first choice. If you do reside, you should plan to replace or go over the existing siding with vinyl. It will be the most cost effective choice for most situations, thus netting you the most value. Hopefully your siding is in decent shape and all you need is a good pressure wash. The following sections will break down what to do if that is not the case.
Vinyl siding:
Inspecting vinyl siding: The biggest issue with older vinyl siding is that it tends to become brittle as it ages. Look for cracks and chips in the panels, and check for any sections that have come loose or are no longer locked into the adjacent courses. Older vinyl will also show more noticeable color fading.
When to replace vinyl siding: If the damage is extensive enough that repairs require significant labor, you will likely get a better return by replacing all of the siding. This also gives you the opportunity to modernize the color. When damage is widespread, combined with significant fading and loose panels on multiple sides of the house, it may be more cost effective to replace the siding entirely. You don’t want to overinvest in a series of repairs that leaves slightly mismatched sections, especially in areas that are highly visible from the front.
Otherwise whenever possible, prioritize repairs over replacement, focusing on maintaining the functional integrity of the existing siding. You can often find matching vinyl from a siding supplier, though the color may not match perfectly due to sun bleaching over the years. In some cases, it is appropriate to rehang an entire section of siding, where a mismatch would be less noticeable, and still come out ahead as the most cost effective solution. Consider this: would you rather spend $15,000 on new siding to add $10,000 in value, or make a few thousand dollars in necessary functional repairs, and attract more buyers at a lower price point?
Wood siding:
Inspecting wood siding: Inspect for deteriorated wood, which may feel soft or swollen, especially near the bottom close to the ground. Take note of its overall condition, as it may need painting or staining to extend its useful life.
When to replace wood siding: When damage is extensive and patching becomes moderately difficult, combined with the effort to scrape and paint, you will likely see a better return by covering the siding with vinyl. This could involve removing a layer or installing strapping directly over the existing siding, depending on the type you have.
Conversely, if the wood siding is in good condition, painting it is a far more cost effective way to add value and extend its lifespan. This is a task you can often handle yourself. Be sure to scrape off any loose paint and keep your scraper sharp. It’s also a good idea to pressure wash the house before painting, which you will want to do anyway before appraisal. Using a cheap airless paint sprayer can speed up the process, and as with any painting project, start at the top and work downward. I also recommend investing in an extension ladder stabilizer to make the job safer and easier.
Fiber cement siding
Inspecting fiber cement siding: Fiber cement siding is durable but mostly inflexible. Look for cracks in the panels. You should also be looking for faded or peeling paint.
When to replace fiber cement siding: The priority with fiber cement is repair over replacement. You can usually replace cracked panels, and fiber cement is easily paintable. With some thoughtful repairs and paint, it can look as good as new.
Asbestos siding note: Most older siding that contains asbestos is similar to fiber cement siding. According to EPA guidelines, if you do not plan to remove asbestos containing material, it is best to leave it undisturbed. Non-friable asbestos siding is generally safe unless it is damaged or disturbed. The recommended approach is to either paint it or install a new layer of siding over it.
Aluminum Siding
Inspecting aluminum siding: Aside from checking for damage in the same way you would with other siding materials, inspect the aluminum for surface oxidation. You can test this by wiping your fingers across it. If a chalky residue comes off, the siding has begun to oxidize. If the residue is heavy and remains even after cleaning, the oxidation may be too deep for the surface to hold paint reliably.
When to replace aluminum siding: If the aluminum siding is heavily damaged and too oxidized to repaint, you will need to replace it. If the siding is in good shape but you are unsure whether it can still hold paint, consult a professional painter to determine the best path forward.
Brick siding
Inspecting brick siding: Brick is a far superior siding material compared to the alternatives, but its main drawback is its cost, both to install and to repair. In older homes, brick often serves as both the siding and the structure, and structural brick walls can be two or three layers thick. When inspecting brick, the primary concern is deteriorated mortar. Once the mortar breaks down, the bricks can begin to loosen and fall out. Look for cracks as well, whether they follow the mortar joints in a step pattern or cut straight through the brick. These usually point to larger issues involving foundation movement or settling. Pay close attention to brick around windows, as these areas are more prone to moisture intrusion that weakens the mortar. If you push on a brick and it shifts or feels loose, then a repair is likely required. Also watch for bricks with a crumbling surface, a condition called spalling. Spalling occurs when moisture is trapped and the brick cannot shed water properly, and it is common on brick that has been sealed or painted with the wrong products. This can lead to extensive damage.
When to repair brick siding: We focus on repairing brick because full replacement is uncommon and often not feasible. If the brick has deteriorated to the point where it cannot be salvaged, the rest of the structure is usually in similar condition and likely beyond practical repair. In terms of appearance and market value, brick is generally forgiving. As long as no sections are failing, you typically do not need to take major action to maintain value. You should seal any problem areas around windows that allow excess moisture into the brick. When pressure washing, use caution and avoid high pressure tips that can strip the face off the brick. Even when brick is aged and weathered, it still retains its value remarkably well.
If you plan to refinish brick, use a transparent or semi transparent stain. These products even out the color without blocking the brick’s ability to breathe. Solid stains and masonry paints create a surface barrier that restricts vapor movement. If the brick is a single layer facade, using solid stain or masonry paint is less of a concern because the built in air gap behind the wall helps the brick ventilate. Structural brick that is two or three layers thick is different. These walls often use softer mortar, have no air gap on the back side, and are sometimes plastered directly on the interior layer. In those cases, preserving breathability is essential, so avoid sealers and use only transparent or semi transparent stains.
If you need to repair brick on your house, it is usually because the mortar has deteriorated enough to require tuck pointing or because there are enough cracks to justify relaying sections. This may be required when sealant would look bad or be inappropriate. If the repair will have any cosmetic impact, it is worth hiring a mason who knows how to match new brick and mortar to the existing work. It is also important to use the correct mortar for the application. Some brick may require harder or softer mortar, which a specialist will be able to determine.
Windows
Replacing windows isn’t always the obvious value add people assume it is. The decision should be based on the actual condition of the existing units. Older wood windows, if they were well made, often outlast cheap vinyl replacements and can function perfectly with basic maintenance. Don’t default to replacing them. They may be perfectly functional with some maintenance, which you can explain in the repair list you submit to the appraiser after your renovations. In terms of value, appraisers see windows as part of the home’s overall condition rather than a feature that adds money on its own. Windows that function properly and fit the home’s age are considered normal and don’t change value. Broken, drafty, or damaged windows are treated as deferred maintenance, which can lower value because buyers factor in repair or replacement costs.
Inspecting windows: When inspecting windows, start with the basics. Check the glass for cracks and make sure the lower sash opens smoothly. Look for signs of rot or moisture damage, especially along the exterior bottoms of the frames. Pay attention to drafts during cold weather, as they can indicate sealing issues. Note whether the glass is single or double pane. If a double pane window has a permanent fog or haze, the seal has failed. If the windows are structurally sound and functional, and the issues are mostly cosmetic, replacing them usually adds less value than it costs, unless you’re doing the labor yourself.
When to replace windows: Cracked glass can usually be replaced, and many windows can be repaired individually when the issues are minor. With vinyl windows, hazy or damaged panes can often be swapped out at a reasonable cost, especially when the rest of the windows are still in good shape. Widespread wood rot, combined with broken glass or sashes that no longer operate, is generally the point of no return. In older homes that were neglected, you’ll often see a mix of rot, cracked glass, and poor operation across most of the windows. When that’s the case, it’s usually best to plan for a full replacement.
Storm windows: Try to keep the existing storm windows whenever you can. If they still open and close properly, they’re an asset. If they look rough, it’s usually worth putting in a bit of cosmetic work to clean them up. Keeping the storm windows not only gives you an extra thermal layer for better efficiency, it also saves you from having to retrim the exterior, which is a big part of the labor. Storm windows also give you a clear target size. You can typically order the replacements to press snugly against the back of the stops. It’s crucial that windows be installed so water can drain properly to the storm window weep holes. Even though storm windows should remain closed during rain, there must still be effective diversion that prevents water from getting trapped.
Measuring for windows
There are two main approaches to replacing windows. Insert replacements are easier and more cost effective but are inferior in almost every way. Full frame replacements involve removing the window down to the rough opening, and usually require reflashing and retrimming. This method delivers superior energy efficiency and addresses any deficiencies in the weather barrier. Full frame replacement is the preferred method.
Insert replacements: With this approach,the new window is sized to fit inside the existing frame and jambs, rather than removing the entire window down to the rough opening. This approach is common in renovations where you want to preserve existing trim, and reduce labor and material cost. If the interior trim obstructs your view of the jambs, carefully remove it so you can see the full window frame and stops. Measure the width by taking the distance between the inside faces of the jambs at the top, middle, and bottom. Use the smallest measurement to ensure the replacement fits without binding. Measure the height from the sill to the inside top of the jamb at the left, center, and right. Again, use the smallest measurement to avoid a tight fit. Check the depth of the existing jamb from the interior to the stop or exterior. This ensures the replacement window will sit flush with the frame and allow the storm window or exterior trim to fit properly. Allow about 1/4 inch total clearance, or roughly 1/8 inch on each side, for shimming and adjustment. This ensures smooth operation and provides space for insulation around the frame.
Full frame replacements: Full frame window replacement is the preferred method. It lets you repair any damaged framing, properly flash the opening, and fully seal and insulate the entire assembly. Remove the interior trim so the rough framing is fully exposed. Measure the opening the same way described earlier, but this time measure from stud to stud. Once you’ve recorded the rough width and height, subtract one half inch from each dimension. The adjusted numbers are the actual order sizes for your windows. You can compare this deduction to the manufacturer’s recommendation, but in older homes you generally don’t want the windows any tighter than this. Older rough openings are often out of square, and a tighter fit can force the window into a diagonal position without the necessary clearance to fit without binding or warping the window frame. Be careful to measure the height from the interior edge of the sill, if it is sloped, you want the small measurement so you don’t have issues fitting the window.
Example: A 24” by 48” rough frame requires a window measuring 23 ½” by 47 ½”.
Ordering windows: In general, the most cost effective way to replace windows is to order them to the minimum building code standards and install them yourself. Replacing windows yourself is less intimidating than it sounds and can be done one window at a time, making it manageable. The potential savings are significant. You’ll still want to measure and order all your windows at once to take advantage of large order discounts.
Here are the minimum requirements for window specifications:
- U factor must be 0.30 or lower
- In Ohio, windows must be northern zone energy star rated, this may be different for your location
- Bedrooms need at least one window with minimum clear opening dimensions of 20 inches wide by 24 inches tall. If an existing bedroom lacks a window this size, you must at least match the existing size, you cannot reduce size, this means no insert replacements.
Exterior sealing: Once the windows are installed, you need to seal the exterior weather envelope. In some cases you can reuse the existing exterior trim, but you’ll still need to seal all seams with exterior grade caulk. If the exterior needs to be retrimmed, the method depends on your siding. Aluminum coil wrap is the most common approach, but traditional wood or PVC trim is also widely used. When sealing the trim system, caulk every edge except the bottom. The bottom edge must remain open so any water that gets behind the trim has a way to drain out instead of becoming trapped. You can always subcontract this part of the project to a professional if you’re unsure how to properly integrate the windows with your siding system.
Exterior Doors
Like any other part of a house, replacing an exterior door only adds significant value if the door is moderately deficient or worse. Often, exterior doors can be repaired, and the decision between repair and replacement may depend on local market values. In modest neighborhoods, older doors that are still structurally sound can often be adequately restored. A fresh coat of paint and a new lockset can make an older door nearly as impactful as a brand new one. In terms of value, exterior doors rarely move the needle on an appraisal. A properly functioning door that matches the home’s style is just expected and buyers often take it for granted. Damage, warping, or failing hardware gets counted as deferred maintenance and can reduce value, but swapping out an average door for a new or fancy one rarely delivers a positive return. A house with an overly elaborate front entryway while the rest of the home is mediocre or worse isn’t going to fool anyone into paying more. Grand entrances may influence perception, but not appraised or true market value.
How to inspect exterior doors: The most important thing to check is moisture penetration at the sill and threshold. Rotten jambs or door edges indicate a persistent problem. Also, test the door’s operation to make sure it opens and closes smoothly, and that the lockset works. Inspect for cracked or broken glass, and check the weatherstripping visually and by feeling for drafts on cold days. Finally, assess the door’s finish, does it need painting or new hardware?
When to replace exterior doors: A moderately rusted steel door and a rotten wooden door are both typically beyond repair, and fixing them properly is often more trouble than it’s worth. Minor rot in the jamb can sometimes be patched, but the underlying cause must be addressed. The damage has often spread to the sill and may have compromised the surrounding framing. Replacing the door allows you to repair the framing and install a proper sill pan.
Otherwise, old or dysfunctional hardware can be replaced at minimal cost. New weatherstripping can be added, and adjustments can be made to ensure the door operates smoothly. So don’t just replace the door because some random real estate article claimed it was the highest ROI project you could do for your home.
Decks and Porches
Appraisers view decks and porches as amenities that contribute to usability and market appeal, but not as features that automatically add dollar for dollar value. A well built, safe, and maintained deck or porch is expected to match the home’s style and condition, it supports value by functionality and local market standards. Deterioration can lower value because buyers factor in repair or replacement costs. Premium or newly built decks may improve marketability, especially compared with similar homes, but they rarely increase appraised value proportionally to construction costs. Deck and porch repairs should always be a priority. Building new ones, however, is expensive and should only be done when they serve a clear purpose. If the property has a view worth highlighting, a new deck can be a smart investment. Otherwise, that money is usually better spent elsewhere. For existing decks and porches, budget for modest repairs and maintenance. Decks are typically in worse condition than porches because porches benefit from a roof that offers partial protection from the elements.
How to inspect decks and porches:
- The most important thing to evaluate on a porch or deck is its structural integrity, which is easiest to judge from underneath. If the framing has sagged or lacks proper support, repairs may be necessary to keep it safe. Pay particular attention to the ledger board, which is the board fastened to the house that supports the deck on the house side. Failures here are common and serious. Assessing the structural condition of a deck or porch can be complicated, especially on older homes where builders used methods that wouldn’t meet today’s code. This doesn’t automatically mean the structure is unsafe; older lumber is often stronger than the material modern codes assume. If you’re unsure how to evaluate the framing and anything looks questionable, it’s best to consult a professional.
- The next most important thing to check on decks is the slope. The deck should pitch away from the house. If it has a negative slope, water will drain toward the structure and can cause significant damage to the house framing or foundation, especially if the ledger flashing is missing or compromised.
- The next priority is the stairs, especially from a safety standpoint. The treads should be deep enough and the risers low enough that people with limited mobility can use them comfortably. Handrails are important, and guard railings are required on decks or porches that are 30 inches or more above the ground. If you plan to sell the house, it’s worth addressing these issues now because they can disqualify certain loans such as FHA or USDA. Some appraisers will even require handrails and railings when residential building code doesn’t.
- The rest of the inspection focuses on the condition of the deck boards and other cosmetic issues. This is usually the point where a bit of targeted cosmetic work delivers the biggest return.
When to replace or repair decks and porches: If you plan to keep a deck or porch, you should complete all required safety repairs, especially if you intend to sell, because appraisers will likely require them anyway. If the deck is too compromised to save and must be demolished, whether you replace it depends on your local market. In low to mid range markets, a deck usually isn’t necessary for the home to appraise properly. If the backyard overlooks a lake, a deck can increase market value and potentially appraised value, since most lakefront comparables usually have some form of outdoor living space to take advantage of the view. In that case, the value comes from the lake view, and a deck can be replaced with any suitable outdoor living area.
If the deck boards are old, cupped, or splitting, you can often keep the existing substructure and install new decking. This is ideal because it cuts more than half the cost of a full rebuild while still giving you a meaningful update. Use the opportunity to reinforce the substructure by sistering any weak joists and adding joist hangers wherever they’re missing. If the deck or porch structure is sound, plan to refinish it. Start by pressure washing, then apply the appropriate stain or paint, plan to apply two coats.
Fences
Fences follow the same logic as decks: if one already exists, maintain it; if not, adding one rarely generates much value unless it solves a clear problem. Dense neighborhoods often benefit from the privacy and sense of boundary a fence provides, and properties bordering busy roads can use a fence to offset some of the negative impact. But adding a fence purely as an optional upgrade usually doesn’t return its cost, because not every buyer cares about privacy fencing. You’re essentially betting that your future buyer has kids or dogs. Even a small fence of around 150 linear feet can run $5,000 or more, and if your buyers don’t value it, they won’t assign any real value to the improvement. In most cases, it’s better to let the buyer decide whether a fence matters and let them take on the cost. Since fencing can be installed easily while someone is living in the home, it’s one of the more convenient projects to leave to the next owner.
The best way to benefit from a fence is when the existing one is in such poor shape that neither you nor other potential buyers counted it toward the property’s value, but the posts are still solid. If you can reuse the posts, you avoid digging new holes and save roughly half the labor. Material will still be the bulk of the cost, but the install is far quicker when you’re only replacing pickets and rails, and perhaps just a couple posts. You essentially go from having no usable fence to having a new one, and the total cost tends to land around 30%-60% of a full replacement.
How to inspect fences: The most important factor is the condition of the posts. Grab each one and shake it to see if it wobbles. You’re trying to determine whether it wasn’t set deep enough or if the ground is allowing it to loosen. Sight down the fence line as well, a visible lean usually confirms post failure. Inspect the base of every post for rot; if the wood is soft and breaks off in chunks instead of splintering, it’s typically not salvageable. After the posts, check the rails for sagging, cracking, or rot. Finally, if the structure is still sound, inspect the pickets to make sure they aren’t rotted, warped, or poorly fastened.
When to repair fences: If the fence is in generally good condition, it may just need paint or stain to bring it back to life. There is a lot of square footage to a fence and you have to do both sides, so it’s only worth doing when maintenance calls for it, not just for a cosmetic color change. You can also replace individual pickets or the occasional post as needed, and refinishing the whole fence will help blend the new sections with the old. If most of the fence is too far gone because too many posts have failed, the cost of repair or replacement usually isn’t justified unless the market conditions make a fence truly necessary.
Flatwork and Driveways
Driveways derive their value primarily from function, they either work or they don’t. It’s a common misconception that paving a driveway adds significant value. A paved driveway only matters more than gravel when a local ordinance requires it or when the home is in a high value neighborhood. Otherwise, gravel usually appraises just as well, as long as it fits the neighborhood. Flatwork is valuable only when it serves a purpose, similar to a deck. For example, a patio can highlight a desirable view or outdoor feature. Without a clear function, paving a driveway or adding flatwork is unlikely to net any value.
How to inspect driveways and flatwork: The most important thing to inspect is tripping hazards. There are two types of concrete in the world: concrete that has cracked, and concrete that will crack. If sections have cracked and sunk enough to create a tripping hazard, especially along a critical pathway, repair or localized replacement is likely necessary. Any paved driveways or flatwork against the house need to slope away from the house, or have adequate drainage to redirect the water. Also look for ruts or holes in gravel driveways.
When to replace driveways or flatwork: Typically, you can refresh a gravel driveway by pouring new gravel and spreading it evenly. This is often done by having the delivery truck “tailgate” the load, then leveling it with gravel rakes. For paved driveways or flatwork, the best approach is to make the most of what’s already there, pressure washing is an effective way to clean and refresh the surface.
Landscaping
Landscaping generally only adds positive net value when clearing brush is essential to using the property or when labor and materials are effectively free. Simple tasks like mulching flowerbeds contribute very little value in a market short on inventory. Buyers know they can do this themselves and are unlikely to assign much importance to it, and appraisers typically give it little to no consideration. That said, certain functional landscaping considerations outside the home can protect the property and may be flagged during inspections or by insurance requirements.
As far as appraisers are concerned, as long as the property is reasonably maintained, landscaping rarely moves the valuation needle. Cosmetic work like mulch, plantings, edging, or decorative stone is treated as routine maintenance and generally adds no appraised value. Appraisers mainly look for whether the landscaping is functional and typical for the neighborhood. Overgrowth, hazardous trees, poor grading, or drainage issues can hurt value, but clean and simple landscaping is usually enough to satisfy the baseline expectation. Only functional improvements that solve real problems receive meaningful consideration. High end landscaping only matters in neighborhoods where it’s standard, otherwise it’s viewed as an over improvement.
How to inspect landscaping: The first thing to consider is any plants or vegetation growing against the house. Some can extend into the siding or eaves, potentially causing costly damage. Trees located near the house can affect gutters and may even compromise the foundation. Additionally, trees planted near sewer or drainage lines can create problems with their invasive roots.
When to repair landscaping: Remove all trees within 10 feet of the house, within 25 feet of sewer and drainage lines, and within 50 feet of any part of a septic system. Trim or remove any limbs overhanging the house. Prune or clear any vegetation touching the house to maintain at least six inches of clearance. Additionally, remove any overgrowth that appears unsightly relative to the standard of the surrounding neighborhood.
Garages and Outbuildings
Appraisers view garages and outbuildings primarily in terms of functional utility, not replacement cost, so their contributory value is usually far less than what they cost to build. Attached garages tend to matter most, since they’re considered part of the home’s core utility, while detached garages and outbuildings are treated as site improvements that add value only when they align with what’s typical in the market. That said, clean and useful structures often still improve general marketability and market value. Buyers appreciate extra storage, hobby space, or protected parking even if an appraiser won’t assign full dollar value to those features. In practice, these buildings help a home sell faster and appeal to more buyers, but they rarely justify major investment unless the surrounding market clearly supports them. You may need to make functional repairs to bring out the most in the potential value, this is especially true in rural markets.
Replacing a functional garage door will not yield a positive net value gain, this is a common misconception. Articles that claim this are based on junk studies and bad data that fail basic tests of logic. The only time a garage door offers significant ROI is when the existing door doesn’t work at all, effectively limiting the garage’s functionality. In that situation, a relatively small investment restores full use of the entire structure, naturally adding value. For purely cosmetic updates, replacing a functional door adds little to no appraised value and only minimal market value. A fresh coat of paint is a far more cost effective way to improve marketability and curb appeal.
How to inspect a garage: You inspect a garage much like the rest of the house, with the addition of checking the garage door. While inspections often flag safety features, like fire separation and self closing doors, these issues are so common in many markets that they rarely affect value. Many mid century or older homes will lack these features, so it’s largely up to the buyer to decide how much they matter. The most important factor is functionality, so be sure the garage door opens and closes properly, and stops when it encounters an obstruction.
When to repair a garage: Repair any exterior defects on an attached garage the same way you would the rest of the house. For detached garages, where dilapidated structures are common in the neighborhood, standards are lower. Basic structural repairs, weatherproofing, and ensuring door functionality are usually enough to preserve maximum appraised and market value. The same approach applies to outbuildings. They can add significant market value, especially in rural areas, but focus on maintaining and making the most of what’s already there. Expensive upgrades or unnecessary repairs often risk pricing the property above what the local market will bear.