Cleanout and Demo
This post will cover cleanout, dumpsters, and demolition. The first step in any renovation is clearing out the space and removing whatever is being replaced. Whether you’re swapping a few fixtures in one room or gutting an entire house, the same basic principles apply. Demo and cleanout is beginner friendly and is a common place to save money by doing the work yourself. For a full scale project, cleanout and demolition typically run between $2,000 and $5,000, or roughly 3%-7% of the total budget. The actual cost depends on how much labor you contribute, how much junk or personal property is left behind, and the overall scope of the renovation. Exterior or structural projects can often require large scale demolition and debris removal. Many times this is factored into the work itself when subcontracting, so this section focuses on small to mid range procedural tasks.
Cleanout
You can’t begin any work until the space is cleared. If you’re living in the home during the renovation, find a temporary place for your belongings. If the property is vacant, everything needs to be removed. Distressed homes often come filled with leftovers from the previous owners, most of it worthless. If I spot anything remotely useful, I offer it to my crew first, then to friends and family. I usually set aside one day for people to pick through items before the dumpster arrives. After that, everything goes straight to the trash. Don’t waste time sorting through things you don’t need. Clear the space quickly so you can start the real work.
When moving large or heavy items, I highly recommend using lifting straps, often called shoulder dollies. They square the weight over your shoulders better so that it is easier on your lower back. A regular dolly (hand truck) is also useful for the appliances.
Dumpsters
Currently I rent my dumpsters from JMW in Canton, Ohio. Right now, a 40 yard dumpster runs about $450–$500. I typically go through several per project, usually 2-4 at the start, one around the midpoint, and one at the end. Your dumpster needs will mostly depend on the size of the house and the extent of the demo.
I pick a discreet and convenient spot on the property to pile debris and wait until there’s enough to justify ordering a 40 yard container. This has consistently been the most cost effective system for me. Some people prefer keeping smaller dumpsters on site more regularly, but that tends to cost more and puts a dumpster in the way throughout the project. Others use their own dump trailers, which I’m sure works fine. I just prefer outsourcing that part and sticking with the approach I know saves me time and money. Make sure you bag all small items or trash will blow around the neighborhood. It will also take longer to load the dumpster later.
If you’re storing drywall off cuts outside, lay a tarp on the ground first, then stack the drywall on top of it. Cover the pile with another tarp as well. This keeps the ground from getting coated in white gypsum dust, because drywall disintegrates quickly when it gets wet.
If you’re in a rural area, you may be able to burn wood and cardboard. Pallets also start piling up as material deliveries come in, and you’ll accumulate plenty of cardboard from cabinet and flooring installations.
When loading a dumpster, start by carrying debris all the way to the back and stacking it vertically as tightly as possible. Only work your way toward the door once you’ve fully packed a vertical section. The load will naturally slope a bit, don’t worry about that. What you don’t want is to toss things in carelessly; stepping over loose trash makes it harder to maximize the space. Be aware of material restrictions. Most dumpster companies won’t take tires, and many won’t accept refrigerators because of the freon. Some limit brick and concrete as well, often requiring a smaller dumpster so the truck can handle the weight. If a provider has too many rigid rules, it’s usually worth finding one that’s easier to work with.
Demolition
Now that the space is cleared and the dumpster is on site, it’s time to get surgical. Keep these demolition tips in mind:
- Don’t remove good drywall unless you’re certain it needs to go.
- Always use a voltage detector before cutting any wire. Cut wire with lineman’s pliers or an angle grinder.
- Use a sledgehammer to break a cast iron tub into manageable pieces.
- A double cat’s paw wrecking claw is invaluable—especially for lath and plaster or prying up subfloor.
- A chainsaw is faster than a reciprocating saw, if you’re comfortable with one and can avoid nails
- If possible, set up a chute from a second floor window directly into the dumpster.
- When fully gutting lath and plaster, you can cut a hole in the upstairs floor and sweep debris down into a trash can or wheelbarrow positioned below.
- Heating linoleum with a torch softens the glue and makes it much easier to pry up. A more cautious approach is using a heat gun. This leads into the next tip.
- Always keep a fire extinguisher on site.
- Cut carpet into 4 foot sections using a utility knife, then roll those up to carry out to the dumpster. This is easier than trying to carry the entire roll at once.
- Keep a few ½ inch SharkBite caps on hand in case a shut off valve fails. It’s best to turn off the water when you’re demolishing around water lines, but you’ll still need running water in the house, so having caps ready is invaluable.
- Block off supply and return vents to protect them from debris.
- Don’t remove lighting unless you are removing the drywall it’s mounted over, keep them until it’s time to install new fixtures, you will appreciate the extra light in the meantime.
Drywall tips: When cutting out drywall to run electrical, work methodically. It’s usually best to cut your channel at the floor. Outlets are typically installed around 16 inches high, and are 4 inches tall, so a channel with its top about 20 inches from the floor is usually the most manageable. This creates a single horizontal mud joint, and you can set the beveled edge of the new drywall against the existing drywall for easier finishing. Every situation is different, so think on the fly to figure out the best way to provide access while removing as little drywall as possible. Sometimes you only need a small opening, and the wire can be fished from one point to another. Whatever the scenario, make your cuts measured and deliberate. Take the time to mark and square everything first. It’s worth the extra effort. Use an oscillating multi tool for drywall or an angle grinder for plaster, just make sure to wear a mask.
Safety: When removing structural members it is important to shore up any affected areas to prevent sagging or collapse. It may be best to consult with a professional if you are unsure how to safely do so. Remember this: You can only be wrong one time.
Moving Forward
I try to demo only what’s necessary to get the job done. Everything you tear out has to be rebuilt, so you should avoid gutting anything unless it’s truly required. I often end up doing small “touch up demo” later because I was too conservative at the start, which is fine since I usually have additional dumpsters coming anyway. You’ll want to tailor your approach to your own dumpster availability, balancing cost and convenience based on your specific situation.